Find the Right Laser Settings for Your Material

Select your laser type, material, and product to get recommended starting settings for Brilliance Laser Inks.

Product Compatibility

Each Brilliance Laser Inks product is matched to a specific material family. Choose the product that fits the material you are marking.

BLI101MBAS black metal marking aerosol spray
BLI101MBAS

Black Metal Marking

For compatible metal grades including stainless steel, brass, and copper.

 BLI404ABAS black aluminum marking aerosol spray
BLI404ABAS

Black Aluminum Marking

For aluminum only. Minimum recommended wattage: 40W Diode, 30W CO2, 30W Fiber.

 BLI201MRAS red copper tone stainless steel marking product
BLI201MRAS

Red / Copper-Tone Marking

For stainless steel only when a red or copper-tone mark is desired.

 BLI420CGBA ceramic and glass black marking spray
BLI420CGBA

Ceramic & Glass Marking

For black marking on compatible ceramic and glass surfaces only.

Settings Guide

Answer a few questions to get your recommended laser settings.

1 Choose your laser type

Select Diode, CO2, Fiber, or use the helper if you are unsure.

2 Enter your wattage

Use your machine's output wattage so the guide can scale the starting settings.

3 Review the result

See adjusted power, speed, passes, frequency, and recommended product.

Step 1 of 7

What type of laser machine do you have?

What is your laser wattage?

Diode Laser range: 10W to 40W.

Note: If your machine's wattage is not listed or does not fall within the recommended range, our laser marking inks may not be compatible with your machine.

BLI404ABAS black aluminum marking requires at least 40W Diode, 50W CO2, or 30W Fiber. If your machine is below that minimum, BLI404ABAS is not recommended.

Use the output wattage if available. If you only know the machine model, enter your best estimate and run a test grid before production.

What speed unit does your CO2 machine use?

This helps us display the correct speed format for your machine's software.

What surface are you engraving?

⚠ Our products are designed for bare (uncoated) metals, ceramic, and glass only.

What final mark are you trying to achieve?

Which Brilliance Laser Inks product are you using?

BLI404ABAS is only recommended for black aluminum marking when the machine meets the minimum wattage: 40W Diode, 50W CO2, or 30W Fiber.

Before You Engrave

  • Clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol.
  • Shake the aerosol can well before use.
  • Apply a light, even coat.
  • Allow the coating to dry completely.
  • Turn air assist OFF.
  • Keep exhaust ON.
  • Run a test grid before production.

Recommended Starting Settings

Laser: - Reference wattage: - Your wattage: - Speed unit: -

Your Selection

Laser Type
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Wattage
-
Material
-
Product
-

Starting Settings

Power
-
Speed
-
Passes
-
DPI
-
Line Interval
-

These are starting settings only. Always test on scrap material before production.

Shop Recommended Product Contact Support

Settings Calculator

Select your laser, enter your machine wattage, and filter by material to get recommended starting settings.

Select your laser machine
Laser: Diode Laser Reference: 40W Creality Speed display: Original guideline

Note: If your machine's wattage is not listed or does not fall within the recommended range, our laser marking inks may not be compatible with your machine.

BLI404ABAS black aluminum recommendations are hidden below 40W Diode, 50W CO2, or 30W Fiber.

Speed velocity display
Filter by material
Note: Please contact us if you are still unable to achieve your desired result. We offer FREE lifetime technical support and will be happy to assist you.
Material test grid images
Material Power Speed Passes DPI Line Interval / Hatch Product

How to Read a Material Test Grid

A quick reference for interpreting your test results and dialing in the right settings.

Material test grid example showing speed vs power combinations on stainless steel

Sample test grid — Speed (mm/min) vs Power (%) on stainless steel using BLI101MBAS

What Is a Material Test Grid?

A material test grid is a systematic method for finding the optimal laser settings for a specific material. By engraving a grid of different speed, power, and frequency combinations, you can visually compare results and identify the best parameters before committing to production.

How to Read It

  • X-axis (horizontal) — Power (%): increases left to right
  • Y-axis (vertical) — Speed (mm/min or %): increases bottom to top
  • Each cell shows the result of that speed + power combination
  • Look for the cell with the clearest, most consistent mark — that's your starting point

Important Reminders

  • Results vary based on your machine wattage and material thickness
  • Thinner materials dissipate heat faster — thicker substrates may need higher power relative to speed
  • Always test on a sample piece before running your final material
  • Re-test whenever you change material, coating, focus, or wattage

Thermal Conductivity & Laser Settings

Understanding how a metal conducts heat helps explain why settings differ between materials — and why some metals are harder to mark than others.

Thermal conductivity measures how quickly a material disperses heat (W/m·K). Metals with high conductivity like copper pull heat away from the laser spot very fast, making it harder for the ink to bond — requiring slower speeds and more dwell time. Metals with low conductivity like stainless steel retain heat at the mark point, bonding the ink more easily at higher speeds.

Note: Material thickness also plays a role. Thinner substrates dissipate heat faster than thicker ones of the same metal — if results are weak on thin stock, slow down your speed before increasing power.

Material Conductivity (W/m·K) Difficulty to Mark Speed Guidance
Copper 385 – 400 Most Difficult Slowest — use minimum speed range, consider 2 passes
Aluminum 205 – 235 Difficult Slow — needs sustained dwell time for bonding
Brass 105 – 125 Moderate Moderate — slower than stainless, faster than copper
Stainless Steel 14 – 16 Easiest Fastest — retains heat well, bonds ink readily

Remember: Always run a material test grid when switching metals. The same laser and wattage will behave differently across materials due to these conductivity differences.

Machine Compatibility & Software

Our products work across all three major laser types. Here's what you need to know about the most popular machines and their software.

Diode laser machine — Creality Falcon2
Diode Laser

Blue-Light Diode Machines

Popular Models
  • xTool S1 / D1 Pro
  • Creality Falcon2
  • Atomstack A20 Pro
  • Sculpfun S30
Software
  • LightBurn Compatible
  • xTool Creative Space (XCS) Compatible
  • LaserGRBL Compatible

Reference wattage: 40W (Creality Falcon2). Settings scale with your actual output wattage.

CO2 laser machine
CO2 Laser

RF Tube CO2 Machines

Popular Models
  • xTool P2S / P3
  • Epilog Fusion Edge / Pro
  • Universal Laser Systems (ULS) VLS / PLS / ULTRA
Software
  • LightBurn — xTool P2S/P3 Compatible
  • Epilog Dashboard Epilog only
  • ULS Control Panel (UCP / LSM) ULS only

Note: ULS and Epilog machines use closed proprietary software — LightBurn cannot directly control them. Design in CorelDRAW or Illustrator and print via the machine's native driver.

Reference wattage: 50W–60W (ULS). BLI404ABAS aluminum marking requires minimum 50W CO2.

Fiber laser machine
Fiber Laser

Galvo Fiber Machines

Popular Models
  • xTool F1 Ultra (Hybrid)
  • ComMarker B4
  • ComMarker MOPA
  • Raycus / JPT MOPA systems
Software
  • EzCad2 / EzCad3 Compatible
  • LightBurn Galvo — xTool F1 Ultra Compatible
  • LightBurn Galvo — ComMarker B4 Compatible

Reference wattage: 20W. Power is capped at 10% maximum for all Brilliance Laser Inks products on fiber lasers.

Bare Metal, Ceramic & Glass Only — Why Coatings Don't Work

Brilliance Laser Inks products are formulated to chemically bond to raw, uncoated surfaces. Understanding why coatings interfere will save you time and material.

✓ Compatible Surfaces

  • Bare stainless steel — 304 / 316 grade, uncoated
  • Bare aluminum — raw, not anodized or powder-coated
  • Bare brass — unplated, no lacquer
  • Bare copper — raw, no protective coating
  • Gold-plated steel — thin gold plating over bare steel is compatible; the laser penetrates the plating and bonds to the substrate beneath
  • Silver-plated steel — similarly, thin silver plating over steel allows the ink to bond effectively
  • Galvanized steel — the zinc coating on galvanized steel is thin enough for the laser to work through; compatible with BLI101MBAS
  • Ceramic — unglazed or compatible glazed surfaces
  • Glass — standard borosilicate or soda-lime glass

Note: Gold-plated, silver-plated, and galvanized steel results may vary depending on plating thickness and quality. Always run a test on a sample piece first. Thicker plating layers may require slower speed or additional passes.

✗ Not Compatible

  • Anodized aluminum — the anodized layer seals the surface and creates a chemical barrier
  • Powder-coated metals — thick coating absorbs laser energy before it reaches the metal
  • Painted or lacquered metals — paint layer prevents ink-to-metal fusion
  • Heavy chrome or nickel plating — thick industrial plating blocks direct bonding
  • Plastics — not a universal plastic marking solution

Why Coatings & Anodizing Cause Problems

Brilliance Laser Inks work by using laser energy to thermally bond the ink chemistry directly to the raw substrate at a molecular level. When a thick coating, anodizing, or paint layer is present:

  • The laser energy hits the coating first, not the metal beneath
  • The ink bonds to the coating surface, not the metal — making the mark easy to peel or rub off
  • Anodizing creates an oxide barrier that is chemically resistant and prevents the ink from penetrating or adhering
  • Powder coat and paint absorb and scatter the laser beam unevenly, producing inconsistent marks

Thin platings like gold, silver, and zinc (galvanized) work because the laser energy is able to penetrate through to the steel substrate beneath, allowing proper ink fusion. Plating thickness matters — decorative thin platings are generally fine, while heavy industrial platings may not be.

Tip: If you need to mark anodized aluminum, strip the anodizing first using a sodium hydroxide solution, then apply BLI404ABAS to the bare substrate. Always test on a sample piece before production.

Application Process

Aerosol Spray

  1. Clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry.
  2. Shake the can well before use. Hold at a 45 degree angle, 6-8 inches from the surface.
  3. Apply a thin, even coat for metals. Apply a thicker coat for ceramics and glass.
  4. Dry fully with a hair dryer or heat gun. Make sure the entire layer is dry.
  5. Engrave with air assist off and exhaust on.
  6. Rinse under tap water or wipe with a wet cloth immediately after engraving.

Powder Concentrate

  1. Clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol and make sure it is completely dry.
  2. For brush application, mix powder and denatured alcohol at a 1:1 ratio by weight.
  3. For spray gun or Preval application, use a 1:2 ratio by weight.
  4. Apply with a brush in a left-to-right motion, creating an even coat.
  5. Use a thin coat for metals and a thicker coat for ceramics and glass.
  6. Dry fully with a heat gun, engrave, then rinse with water.
  7. Mixed powder may be reused if stored tightly closed and fully submerged in solvent.

Liquid-Ready Powder

  1. Clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol and make sure it is completely dry.
  2. Fill the bottle with denatured alcohol to the first label line for brush application.
  3. Fill to the second label line for spray application, then shake or stir well.
  4. Apply evenly with a brush or use a Preval spray system.
  5. Use a thin coat for metals and a thicker coat for ceramics and glass.
  6. Dry fully before engraving. Use a heat gun to speed up drying if needed.
  7. Engrave with the recommended settings, then rinse with water.

Important Setup Notes

  • Run a test grid before production.
  • Keep focus accurate and material flat.
  • Use BLI404ABAS for aluminum black marking only at 40W Diode, 50W CO2, or 30W Fiber and above.
  • Use BLI420CGBA for black marks on glass and ceramic.
  • Use BLI201MRAS for red / copper-tone marks on stainless steel.

Do's & Don'ts

Do

  • Clean the surface before coating.
  • Apply a thin, even coat.
  • Let the product dry completely.
  • Keep exhaust or fume extraction on.
  • Test on scrap material first.

Don't

  • Do not use air assist while marking.
  • Do not engrave while the coating is still wet.
  • Do not use heavy overspray.
  • Do not skip testing when changing material, coating, focus, or wattage.
  • Do not use red / copper-tone product for glass or ceramic.

Frequently Asked Questions

What colors are available?

Glass and ceramic are black marking only with BLI420CGBA. Stainless steel can use BLI101MBAS for black marking or BLI201MRAS for red / copper-tone marking. Aluminum metals use BLI404ABAS only when the machine meets the minimum wattage: 40W Diode, 50W CO2, or 30W Fiber.

Are the markings permanent?

Yes, when the product is applied correctly and bonded with the proper laser settings. Always test before production.

Should I use air assist?

No. Turn air assist off while marking. Keep exhaust or fume extraction on.

Do you publish SDS / TDS files?

Please contact support at support@brilliancelaserinks.com to request SDS / TDS information.

Does it work on plastic?

These products are not recommended as a universal plastic marking solution. Test carefully and contact support for help with unusual materials.

Why does the ink look white, light gray, or light jade green instead of black or red (copper-tone)?

This is completely normal and expected. The ink appears white, light gray, or light jade green when first applied to the surface — that is simply the natural color of the raw ink chemistry in its unengraved state. Once your laser engraves over the coated area, the heat from the laser beam triggers a chemical bonding reaction between the ink and the substrate, which is what produces the final black or red/copper-tone mark.

Think of it like a heat-activated process: the color you see before engraving is just the carrier formula. The true, permanent color only develops the moment the laser fuses the ink to the metal, ceramic, or glass surface beneath it. This is also why the product must be fully dry before engraving — any moisture in the coating layer will interfere with that heat transfer and prevent proper color development.

After engraving, simply rinse the surface under tap water or wipe it with a wet cloth to remove the unbonded ink around the marked area. You will then see the final black or red/copper-tone result clearly.

Important Disclaimer

Settings are general guidelines only. The recommended power, speed, DPI, frequency, hatch, and interval values on this page are starting points based on reference tests with specific laser machines and substrate grades. Your actual results will vary.

Always test on scrap material first. Before committing to production, run a material test grid on a scrap piece of the same material.

Permanent marks cannot be removed. Once correctly applied, marks made with Brilliance Laser Inks products are permanent and cannot be removed without physically machining or sanding the surface.

Food safety. FDA approval must be obtained independently by each manufacturer. Compliance with food safety regulations is the sole responsibility of the end-user.

For technical assistance, visit Contact Support, email support@brilliancelaserinks.com, or call 609-534-7008 / 609-534-7009. Live support is available Monday-Friday, 8am-5pm EST.